While Lapland’s unique charm continues to draw more and more visitors in search of Santa Claus each year, look to Finland’s friendly and fascinating neighbour Sweden for your next sub-zero escape. With just as much snow-laden fun on offer, Västerbotten county in the country’s subarctic north offers a quieter winter adventure.
The northern county of Västerbotten stretches from the Norwegian border in the west to the Gulf of Bothnia in the east, with its northmost section forming part of the Swedish Lapland. The county’s two main cities, Umeå and Skellefteå, are both around an hour’s flight from Sweden’s capital Stockholm — providing easy access to northern Sweden’s vast wilderness of icy lakes, snow-clad mountains, secluded valleys and dense forests. Västerbotten’s largest city, Umeå, was previously named the European Capital of Culture in 2014 and remains a cultural hotspot for visitors with a number of highly regarded museums and Sami Week — an annual celebration of Sweden’s Indigenous population. The second largest city, Skellefteå, is a modern gateway to the snowy subarctic and a hub for outdoor activities including cross-country skiing and ice skating.
1. Trek through the snowy taiga forest
In the village of Svansele, just under an hour’s drive from Skellefteå, Horses of Taiga offers an extraordinary experience — horse-riding through the ethereal taiga forest. Also known as the boreal forest, the taiga forest is only found in the subarctic, distinguished by its types of conifer trees that are adapted to long, freezing winters. The Icelandic horses at Horses of Taiga are well-accustomed to the cold climate, too, providing a relaxed trek through the thick snow that carpets the forest. A treasured breed, Icelandic horses are small —almost pony-sized — and have a gentle and patient nature, making them ideal for all levels of rider. As you traverse the tranquil, snow-dusted taiga, there’s a chance you may even spy reindeer or moose through the trees. Tours from 1.5 hours to five days are available and group sizes are limited to a maximum of five people to minimise the impact on the surrounding environment.
The small Icelandic horses are well-accustomed to the cold climate of the subarctic.
Photograph by Rianne Kindt
2. Ride a snowmobile over a frozen river
Just down the road from Horses of Taiga, Svansele Wilderness Centre offers guided snowmobile tours into the forest surrounding Svansele — a river valley where the Malån and Skellefteå Rivers meet. Here you can slalom through the trees and then speed along the snow-covered frozen water. After your adrenaline-fuelled snowmobile adventure, head back to the centre’s rustic wooden hut for a feast of locally sourced reindeer and moose meat, fish and potatoes cooked over the huge indoor fire and hear stories of the centre’s original owner and founder, Thorbjörn Holmlund — affectionally known as ‘the moose man’.
3. See the spectacular Northern Lights
In the colder months, Sweden should be on the radar for those in search of the elusive aurora borealis, thanks to the country’s proximity to the Arctic Circle and the north magnetic pole. When the sky is clear, the twirling streams of green-blue light that dance in the sky can be seen in northern Sweden from early September through to late March, and due to extra high solar activity this year, there’s the potential for the best auroras in 20 years. For a chance to see the phenomenon, spend the night in a tipi with Aurora Borealis Adventures (around a 1.5-hour drive from Umeå) where wide windows in the roof and walls of the tipi provide a first-class viewing of the night sky. Granö Beckasin, just over an hour’s drive from Umeå, also offers guided tours where you can learn how to capture the Northern Lights on camera.
4. Stay in one of the world’s tallest wooden buildings
At the end of a chilly day in the snow, Skellefteå’s Wood Hotel By Elite provides a warm welcome. One of the tallest timber buildings in the world — built from 12,000 cubic metres of locally sourced wood — the hotel is bright and modern and its cosy, Scandi-style rooms have large windows overlooking the city. Fitted with solar panels and batteries, the building uses an innovative ‘smart’ energy system, which detects the number of people inside to adapt the electricity and heating/cooling needs. Dine at one of the three on-site restaurants — such as Asian-fusion Miss Voon — before making your way up to the luxurious spa on the top floor of the hotel, which provides picturesque, 360-degree views of Skellefteå. While you’re relaxing in the outdoor hot tub, you may even be lucky enough to see the Northern Lights.
Skellefteå’s Wood Hotel By Elite is one of the world’s tallest timber buildings.
Photograph by Visit Skellefteå
Skellefteå, in northeastern Sweden, is a modern gateway to the snowy subarctic and a hub for outdoor activities, including cross-country skiing and ice skating.
Photograph by Visit Skellefteå
5. Taste regional delicacies
Västerbotten’s strong and salty, parmesan-like cheese, Västerbottensost, is a must-try. It’s still made according to an original recipe from 1872 and is widely available in the area from delicatessens, such as Duå Umeå. Grab a bottle of the celebrated local dessert wine Brännland Iscider, too, which in 2022 became the first Swedish wine to be served at the Nobel Prize Banquet. There are many high-end restaurants in Västerbotten county, as well as laid-back cafes such as Tonka Strandgatan, where you can stop for fika (a traditional coffee and cake break).
Taking its name from the Mandel potato (also known as the almond potato), a staple in northern Sweden, Restaurant Mandel in Skellefteå serves up Swedish reindeer with a rich gravy, carrots, broccoli and salt-baked beets. And don’t pass on the pike — this flavoursome fish is served with roasted nuts and seeds, ancho chilli and chipotle salsa, plus lime mayonnaise. In downtown Umeå, star bartender Emil Åreng serves inventive cocktails at his lively Facit Bar. As well as offering a range of local beers and wines, the bar serves cocktails made with Swedish-produced spirits and mixers. Try the britt-martini, a smooth combination of Hernö Slow Sloe Gin shaken with blackcurrant and red and rosé vermouth.
6. Visit quirky museums in Umeå
With a large student population, thanks to Umeå University, Umeå is home to a number of fun art galleries and museums. One of the must-dos for music fans is the quirky Guitars – The Museum, run by twin brothers Samuel and Michael Åhdén. Their passion for guitars started in the mid-1960s and now they proudly display their collection of hundreds of vintage and rare guitars on the top floor of the Umeå Folkets Hus in the city centre. The museum also has a bar and regularly hosts live music performances.
If art is more your thing, Umeå’s modern art museum, Bildmuseet, will strike a chord. There are seven floors to explore, as well as sweeping views over the Umeälven River through the contemporary building’s huge windows.
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